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Find out how to activate licences and register Affinity apps , install app updates or install content. If you wish to get in touch, just drop us an email. Creativity is king, knowledge is power. Affinity Designer 2 Affinity Designer 2 is packed with loads of new features and enhancements so you can bring your designs and illustrations to life even more effortlessly.

Contact us If you wish to get in touch just drop us an email at affinity serif. Installing updates For more information on how to install Affinity updates , visit this page. This browser is no longer supported. This book is for the iPad version of Affinity Designer. Just send an email to [email protected] , and we’ll give you a full refund.

It’s as simple as that. Which option is right for you? By bundling both products, you get the best deal Affinity Revolution offers. Glad after having spent many hours of reading help not finished yet and many hours of viewing all the videos I can find I found this link in the Forums which I had not come to having been so busy trying to learn Affinity I did get the pdf onto my phone as I hope to spend time reading in in a few hours while my wife is being checked out by the folks who will do her cataracts.

I did a quick check of topics as I have one thing I have not been able to find and that is text information primarily how to change the color of a text. I normally only need to add my signature to a photo but don’t want to use a default black but can’t find how to do it and did not see any title for text in your pdf but I will start reading it in a couple hours.

If there is something it would be great to know its location. When you enter text, there are two Windows with colors in them in the upper part of the screen. One is normally black but you can change the color and it will be the color of the text you select. This is not mentioned in the help file, I wonder why. Thanks ve — I agree about the help file. I have not looked at your pdf on my computer so can’t be sure if one can jump to a particular section of the contents pages but I did find that I could not using either of 2 pdf readers that I have on my Android phone.

If you know of a reader that does it, provided the option is there that would be great. I find things a bit difficult too as when I make the text large enough for me to see, then I have to do a lot of scrolling to see all of the text whereas if the text fit the width of the screen and then just took more lines to be read, it would be easier.

Really do appreciate all the work and I definitely will be getting to the. Still have a bit of the help file to go through also.

Wish the help file would provide more assistance as to how to do some things as opposed to simply stating what things do. Also it would be nice to be given reasons to and why a task should be performed under what specific conditions. The work you have done for all of us is phenomenal. I have a quick suggestion, if and when you update the pdf file. Put a Cover Page on the pdf, so that it is easily identifiable in the Mac Finder with a thumbnail preview ; on an iPad where, in Grid View, the thumbnail is visible but not the title ; and, I presume, in Windows Explorer as well although I do not routinely use Windows.

This is a wonderful piece of work. A graphic-based Cover Page would enhance it ever so much. Thanks in advance! Patrick Connor Serif Europe Ltd. True nobility lies in being superior to your previous self. The Contextual Toolbar is located at the very bottom of the screen. This toolbar is not a constant, but changes per Tool you select to use.

Each Persona has its own specific tools and should be considered separate workspaces. The Studios are all located on the right side of the screen. The most-used Studios are Layers, Color, and Adjustments. These buttons are not on the screen by default.

We’ll show you how to have these two buttons here in the next steps. The Home button left-facing arrow in the top left corner of the screen brings us back to the Home page.

Click on these to explore what they do. Note: As you work your way through this book, we’ll write things like “go to the Contextual Toolbar and adjust the Width to 50 px”. When you see sentences like this, what we are doing is first directing your attention to the bottom of the page and then telling you how to adjust the first button on the Contextual Toolbar. Also, some other users say the Canvas is synonymous as the image you’re working with.

It doesn’t matter, really, what you call these items. We like separating the meanings because it keeps everything more clearly defined. Click on the Home button to leave this page and return us to the Home page. This action of clicking on the Home button saves our work. Make sure you do this often when you’re working on your own work.

There’s nothing worse than losing your work because of a bug or a loss of battery. Click on the gear icon in the top right corner of the Home page see white square. Click on Interface and adjust the Background Gray Level see white rectangle to whatever you want. Click on the Show Undo and Redo buttons slider see yellow rectangle. Make sure its slider icon is to the right Press Done when you’re finished see green rectangle. Note: We apologize that this image below is too small for the ebook version.

Hopefully, you can see what we mean and then you can make the adjustments you need in your iPad yourself. Now, you are all set to jump right into this book and upload every image we’re going to use for each lesson. These two Preference changes are the only ones we do. Please take your time here and explore all the different options on in the Preferences. But, before we move on to the next lesson, let’s open a New Document so you can see how that works, too. You should be back at the home screen.

If you’re not, please go home. Click on the Add button see the white square so we can choose which layout we want to create, upload, or import. Click on the New Document button. When you click on this button, you’ll see the New Document screen. Before you open a new document, you need to determine several things.

Depending on the end use of your image, you’ll need to adjust the DPI. For all print media you need the DPI to be Once you’ve figured out these three points, let’s take a look at the New Document screen see the below image for the following points. Take your time and see what other options there are if you’d like to. Set the DPI to see the round button on the far-right side of the white rectangle. Set the Orientation to Portrait look inside the yellow rectangle.

Press OK not pictured at the bottom of the screen when you’re done with these settings. When you do this, the document on the screen will be a blank, white rectangle. You can now add things to it. Note: We like to start our New Documents with the highest pixel density as possible. This is why we like to choose this setting. We learnt early on that it’s easier to decrease resolution and keep a high-quality image than it is to increase the resolution of a low pixel density image.

This ends this first basic lesson. You now know how to set up a new document. Normally, we simply open up our images onto the screen, but it’s good to know how to set up new documents as well.

Don’t delete this new document as we’ll be using it in our next lesson. Basics 2 — How to Crop Images Everyone knows that cropping images properly is one of the most basic and easy-to-understand tools we use when taking photographs with our cameras and our smartphones. Affinity Photo offers us a few more options than the simple crop action we are all used to.

Inside Affinity, we can crop, cut, resize, straighten, and compose our images to what we want. The image we’ll be using for this lesson is named Basics 2 – Crop – Surfer. Here is its hyperlink if you’d like to download the image this way. Click on the Commands button see white square and then in the pop-out window, choose Place and then click on Place from Cloud.

This will open up our iCloud Drive folder where we can choose which image we want to place on top of the white document we created in the middle of our screen. Click on the image you want to use. In this case it’s the first one on the list see this screenshot. Note: When you place an image, the action is a bit strange. In this case, the document isn’t the correct size for the image we’ll be placing on top of it. But that’s why this next lesson is how to use the Crop tool.

Notice how the surfer image doesn’t cover the entire document. Before we begin, let’s talk about what’s going on in our photo by using bullet points: The white area has to be cropped out.

The subject is a surfer in either the ocean or a lake. There’s a kitesurfer on the right-side of the image The trees in the background appear to be going downhill. Now that we know what’s in our image, let’s list the options we’re going to do to make the photograph better.

We’ll crop out the white portion of the document as we crop of the other items. We’ll crop the image so the kitesurfer is not seen. We’ll straighten the image so the trees will appear to be on a flat surface. We’ll play around with different ratio sizes of our crop. Ready to start? Pinch the screen so our image is smaller than when it first appears on the screen. Our image is roughly half the height of the iPad’s screen. Having a smaller sized image makes cropping easier because we can see more of what we’re doing.

Click on the Crop Tool so it’s activated. It’s the fourth tool down from the top and looks like a funny square with a diagonal line thru its middle. When you do this, the image will show a crop grid that overlays the image. We can change this overlay very simply by going to the Contextual Toolbar. Drag a crop over the surfer image so the bottom white document will be cropped out. Press Apply when done cropping out the bottom white portion of our document see yellow rectangle.

Go to the Contextual Toolbar at the bottom of the screen and click on the white arrowhead on its far-right side see the yellow square in the below image. When you click on this arrowhead, you’ll see the second part of the Contextual Toolbar. The first option you’ll see is the Overlay option s.

Here you can click on the current Overlay in this case it’s Thirds or use a swiping action on its name to see the other Overlays Spiral, Diagonals, None. Each type of Overlay has its own specific function. These are: Thirds Grid: The photo is divided evenly into thirds and the subject should be placed at the intersection of the dividing lines or on one of the lines.

This creates a better composition for the image and will make it less boring. Spiral: This overlay is used when we want to focus the image on natural objects, like a breaking wave. The spiral overlay is based on the naturally occurring Fibonacci Spiral. The subject should be placed where the innermost curl is located. Diagonals: This overlay is used when our subjects are buildings or structures that form definite lines and angles.

Place the slope of one or more of our subjects to align each other to one another. None: Use this overlay when you want to crop your image without worrying about any specific composition. This is what the Thirds Grid looks like and is most likely the one you have in front of you, too.

For this lesson, we’ll use this overlay. Let’s follow the instructions we just read for the Thirds overlay to compose this image properly as well as crop out the kitesurfer. You’ll have to go back several times to again remove the kitesurfer from the crop as you do these movements.

This is what you’re after: Go back to the Contextual Toolbar and press the Apply button. Pinch again on the image to decrease its size to about half of the screen’s size like we did in the first step. Our subject is now properly cropped using the Thirds overlay. Now, let’ straighten the image so the horizon is flat and not wonky like it is now.

Click again on the Crop Tool so it’s active and the Thirds Grid overlay is again in front of us. Go to the Contextual Toolbar and click on the white arrowhead to reveal the second part of its options. Click on the Darken button see the yellow rectangle and watch how the canvas area around your image darkens.

This is a neat effect that creates more contrast between your image and the canvas. Use this if you want to or not. Lift your Pencil from the screen after you’ve found a similar point on the image where the horizon probably is on the right side. The length of this line is not important. All you have to do is make sure your line is true to the horizon. In some photos this horizon is difficult to determine. Go to the Contextual Toolbar and click on the Apply button see red rectangle in the screenshot two images above.

Our image is looking very nice now. Our subject is placed exactly where we want him, and the horizon is now logically straight.

This is what our image looks like now. Now that our crop is basically over, let’s again go to the Contextual Toolbar and look at the different crop modes. Let’s say we want to make sure our image is in format. This is how we make our cropped image this specific size. Go to the Contextual Toolbar and click on the Thirds button and select Custom Ratio from the list of choices see the yellow rectangle. Click on the X button see the white rectangle and in its pop-out calculator window type at the top of its window see our image for reference.

Press Ok when done. Click on the Y button see the green rectangle and in its pop-out calculator window type Press Ok. Because we prefer to show more water than sky, we’ll move the crop downward to the lower border of our image see two images before for how we positioned the newly cropped image.

This is what our image looks like now after we set its dimensions to We left the Thirds Grid so you can see how we repositioned the crop. You can still see at the top of this screenshot where the image border is, which is outside the ratio. Take a look at our final image. You now know how to properly crop an image using Thirds Grid and how to straighten a crooked horizon. This ends this tutorial. We call this action ‘magic’ because we’re still so excited about how well Affinity Photo has created their Inpainting Brush tool.

Simply paint over an object and poof! The lesson has two parts: In part one, we’ll remove some objects from a photo and in part two, we’ll remove some skin blemishes. By the end of this lesson, you’ll know how to use the powerful Inpainting Brush tool.

In this part, we’ll get our first experience using the powerful Inpainting Brush Tool. We’ll be removing the three birds from their perches. Before we start, we want to duplicate the image by holding down your finger on the screen and selecting Duplicate from the pop-out window. Now we have two copies of the picture. The reason we do this is because we work non-destructively. This will keep the original image safe by working on a copy of it. It will also allow us to see the before and after images for comparison.

Click on the Layers Studio icon see yellow square so you can now see that we have two layers. Working Non-Destructively Do you know what it means to work non-destructively?

If yes, then please skip this explanation and turn to the next page. If not, please pay attention: Working non-destructively is exactly what it sounds like: Working with images so that their original format isn’t destroyed. The simplest way to do this is to create a copy of the original images layer in the Layers Panel. To do this, we duplicate the image.

As we did in the step above, we duplicated the bottom layer see image above so that there are now two Background layers visible. The original layer is below the duplicated layer because as we add layers like adjustments and Fills, they stack on top of the current layer.

Duplicating layers places one layer directly on top of the other one so that when looking at the image on the canvas it is impossible to see that there are really two layers present. This is a very important point to understand – that you will not be able to see visually a duplicated layer until you move it with the Move Tool.

When we make adjustments on the top Background layer, the bottom Background layer is not affected i. This is what it means to work non-destructively. Therefore, whenever you are working with original images especially RAW image files that you don’t want to be ruined, you should always duplicate the original.

This will become second nature to you as you continue to grow in your knowledge of Affinity Photo. Now that we have a better understanding of what it means to work nondestructively, let’s keep going After duplicating the image of the birds, let’s remove the birds from their perches. To do this: Click again on the Layers Studio icon to make its pop-out window disappear.

Go the Tools and click on the Clone Brush Tool. Because it has a small triangle in its lower right-hand corner this means it is made up of other tools. You just need to click on it and the other tools will reveal themselves in a pop-out window. Click on the Inpainting Brush Tool so it’ll now be active, and we can begin to use it see the image below for how this is done. After you’ve clicked on the Inpainting Brush, its icon will replace the Clone Brush’s icon. You know a tool is active if there is a vertical blue line to its left see this below image.

Go to the Contextual Toolbar at the bottom of the screen and look at the four choices from left to right Width, Opacity, Flow, Hardness. We need to adjust these values to do our best work. Set the Width to 70 px so the size of the Inpainting brush is about the same width as one of the bird’s bodies.

This will create the strongest change when we apply the brush stroke to the birds to make them disappear. Because the background behind the birds is already fuzzy and blurred, having full hardness will be ok. If the background was in focus more, then we’d lower the percentage of Hardness.

Note: How you adjust the Opacity, Flow, and Hardness is a personal choice. You need to learn what works best for you. We can recommend what we do, but you’ll soon be using your own values. Paint over the bird as close to its outline as possible. When you lift your finger or Pencil from the screen the inpainting magic happens and the bird will disappear.

Paint over the other two birds just like we did for the bird in the above image. Oops, the effect didn’t quite turn out the way it did for the first bird. Don’t worry if there are remnants of the birds.

Simply paint over the parts that are still showing and Affinity Photo will remove them. Look at this image below to see what we mean. This will remove the rest of the bird fragments from the image.

The last part that we should fix are the tops of the wooden posts. To fix these non-straight tops, we need to go back to the Contextual Toolbar and change the Width of the Inpainting Brush tool to 15 px or just wide enough to cover the tops of the posts.

With the first finger or Pencil release from the screen and tap once to the right of the post. This action will create a straight line. Note: In the Desktop version, you use the Shift key to create a straight line instead of an extra finger on the screen. This is our final image. This ends part one. Part II: Removing Imperfections from a Photo For this second part of this tutorial, we will be removing imperfections from a woman’s face.

This technique is a good one to know how to use when, for example, people need polished-looking images for things like social media and advertising. During the whole process, we never had to change the width of the brush. We think this is an amazing result. Please have the image uploaded to your iPad so we can begin working some Affinity magic on this image.

We need to duplicate the image in front of us so that we’ll have two layers in the Layers Studio. Click on the Layers Studio icon see yellow square to see that we now have two of the same layers. Notice how the top layer is active. You can tell this because it’s highlighted while the bottom layer is not. Click again on the Layers Studio icon to make its pop-out window disappear.

After you click on the Inpainting Brush, its icon will replace the Clone Brush’s icon. You know a tool is active if there is a vertical blue line to its left see this image.

 
 

 

Affinity Designer for iPad tutorials

 

Over the last couple of years, I’ve had many requests for written tutorials. After dowmload of work, I’ve finally put together a written version of our popular video course, Affinity Downlpad iPad for Beginners. This book took a lot of work to make, but I think it was worth it. This is the best written instruction for Affinity Photo iPad out there! If you prefer written tutorials for learning, or just want a quick reference to all of the most important information in this program, this book is for you.

You will learn everything you need to know to go from beginner to expert! After signing up on this page, you will be able to instantly download перейти на источник copy of the eBook, and read it on any device you want including your iPad.

You will also receive all the exercise images I use in the book, so you can follow along with me. Ezra and Ally work together to create tutorials for Affinity Revolution. For this book, Ezra created the original video course that it’s based on, while Ally transcribed and formatted it as a book. Affinoty they’re not making tutorials for desiggner Affinity community, Ezra and Ally love taking walks even when it’s raining!

After walking, they usually end up watching way too many YouTube videos. Affinity designer ipad tutorial pdf free download Photos. What are others saying about Affinity Revolution tutorials? Beverley Brown Нажмите чтобы прочитать больше have just completed both of your courses on Affinity Photo and Affinity designer ipad tutorial pdf free download Designer and I have to say they are the best online courses I have ever taken!

I learnt so much and I cannot thank you enough for your amazing clear way of teaching – it is a gift for sure. Ezra – you are a star! TheeScottishGuy I посмотреть больше recommend this man’s Affinity courses. They are worth way affinity designer ipad tutorial pdf free download than they cost. The skills and techniques you’ll learn are fantastic and easy to remember thanks to the teaching methods of the tutor.

Rick Grunwald I love your tutorials. You have mastered the art of getting enough detail in for a beginner without адрес it down into a 20 minute ordeal.

If anyone needs to learn from the ground up, your courses are the best out there! Rockin’ Out With Wow. Everyone needs an Ezra in their home! You’re a joy to watch! Thank you so much for all the effort you put into it!

Louise Affinity designer ipad tutorial pdf free download You are always to the point, clear, easy to follow, and give explanations for why we do what.

It’s fantastic, loaded with info and very well done. If you’re a new to Affinity, like me, you can’t go wrong making the purchase. Shane Tierney Thank you for putting something quite complicated into plain English! Christoapher Campbelll Ezra, you are awesome dude! Thank you for all you’re doing to help the community and me specifically!

You have even helped my business grow and become something that I can be proud of! You are awesome! You can read at your own pace, and easily follow along in Affinity Photo. You can watch every step in real time, so you never have to wonder how something was done.

Посетить страницу источник these two amazing resources, you can master Affinity Photo in video and written formats, giving you the benefit of both ways of learning. The coupon code you entered affinity designer ipad tutorial pdf free download expired or invalid, but the course is still available! Happy learning!

Order Book Here. Frequently Asked Questions Перейти I get a physical copy of the book? This is the most comprehensive written guide for Affinity Photo iPad in the world. This book is for the iPad version of Affinity Photo. Just send an email arfinity [email protected]and we’ll give you a full refund. It’s as simple as that. Sample lesson from the book. Which option is tutofial for you?

By bundling both products, you get the best deal Affinity Revolution offers. Order Here.

 
 

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